Weaving Technology Ethics

Unrolling the history of weaving: What technology lead us to for the culture of making?

The intricate art of weaving has lost popularity due to industrialization shifts. Weaving is way more complicated than we could have ever expected, with the different patterns and techniques. The research Weaving Technology Ethics is focusing on human interaction with weaving tools and the possibilities of digi-fab application in weaving culture.
KEYWORDS
design computation; parametric design; user interface; interactive design; data visualization; digital modeling; digital fabrication; weaving culture; loom

EXHIBITION
Fabric + Formworks, CoD Gallery, Iowa State, May 2, 2018
Both/And: Fabricating Potentials, Shelby Doyle, RISD, Nov. 8, 2018
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Yiqi and Team, Shelby Doyle, Olivia Valentine

Fabrication potentials for
ancient methodology of making

Chapter I: pocket loom

Note: this chapter is done solely by Yiqi.

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1    Background

The Pocket Loom is trying to test out weaving potentials started in simple experiments. The idea of pocket loom is to produce low-cost and handy tools for weaving activities. These grab and go weaving kit can start a trend of weaving using fragmentation time. Users can order the kit or just download laser-cut files to make their own looms.

Figure 1: Weaving 2, 2/2 Twill, 99 rows    
Figure 2: Weaving3, 3/1 Twill, 26x4 104 rows

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2    Experiments

The project completed four loom weaves using the Pocket Loom by Weaving Lab at the University of Wisconsin. The first woven structure is a weft face plain weave in #6 red mercerized cotton fiber. The second woven structure(Fig. 3) is a 2/2 Twill Sampler in blue and gray mercerized cotton fiber. The third woven structure is a 3/1 Twill Sampler in blue and gray mercerized cotton fiber. The forth woven structure applied 2/2 Twill, gaps, and seals while using blue, red and gray mercerized cotton fiber. The gap area will remain as void while the twill area became solid. The different density of fiber then formed into desired patterns. Two weaving drafts were made after he second and third woven structures. The drafts analysis the woven structure diagrammatically in black and white. The drafts also examined errors and irregulars in the woven structures.

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3    Issues        

During the constructing process, the woven structure might become extremely tight because of the surface tension and friction. One solving way is always to watch the pulling and adjust the woven structure when it starts to become tight. However, the tool kit would still consider hard to work with due to its limitation of pattern, tension issues, durability of the material.

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4   Technical Documents

4.1 Weaving Tools
  • Pocket Loom by Weaving Lab at the University of Wisconsin adapted by instructors for this assignment. This is a basic frame loom structure.
4.2 Digital Technology
  • Laser cutting basswood from a drawing in vector
4.3 Woven Structures
  • Woven Structure 1: Weft Face Plain Weave
  • Woven Structure 2: 2/2 Twill Sampler
  • Woven Structure 3: 3/1 Twill Sampler
  • Woven Structure 4: Twill and Gaps
4.4 Fibers
  • Mercerized Cotton
Woven Structure 4, 2/2 Twill and Gaps
Woven Structure 1, Weft Face Plain Weave
Woven Structure 3, 3/1 Twill
Woven Structure 2, 2/2 Twill
Figure 3: Woven Structure Experiments
Figure 4: Woven Structure Details

Chapter 2: Inkle Looms + Tablet Weaving

Note: this chapter is done solely by Yiqi.

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1    Background

The chapter Inkle Loom and Tablet Weaving experimented weaving methodologies(Fig. 5) using laser-cut tablets and shuttles, CNC wood Loom, and thread collections. The research started at reading and analyzing ancient tablet weaving patterns within the basic understanding of tablet weaving history.

2    Experiments

The first four weaves(Fig. 6) were initial pattern studies. Different weaves were successfully constructed in different turning sequences. As the experiment went further, more complex turning sequences were generated. Threads number went from two to three to four. Threads number, rotating direction, and threads setting added to the complexity of weaving results. Compared to applying turning directions, applying more S and Z thread settings can make the weaving sequence easier while maintaining complexity.

Figure 5: Work flow of designed tablet weaving system
Figure 6: Tablet weaving sample test

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Later, two more sample weaves and two final weaves are designed and constructed. Draft diagrams and sequence records(Fig. 7) generated using digital sketching can be easily used to document as well as lead the weaving process.

British teapot inspires the final 12-inch weaves. Color gold, carmine, reflective blue, light yellow are used in the design. The colorful pattern follows leaf structure. (Fig. 8)

The final weaves construction format is in 72 threads with 18 square tablets.

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3   tERMS

  • ‍Twining: To twist strands together. In basketry and weaving, where two or more strands cross each other across spokes or warp threads‍
  • Tablet: Made with acrylic, 4 sided, with holes to carry the warp threads, to create the shed‍
  • Shed: The temporary separation between upper and lower warp yarns through which the weft is woven.‍
  • Shuttle: A shuttle is a tool designed to neatly and compactly store the weft yarn while weaving with a loom. Shuttles are thrown or passed back and forth through the shed, between the yarn threads of the warp in order to weave in the weft.‍
  • S + Z Threading: The letters S + Z are used to indicate the direction of the threaded cards.
Figure 7: Computer monitored tablet weaving  test

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4   Technical Documents

4.1 Weaving Tools
  • Inkle Loom and card/tablets.
  • Digital Technology
  • Laser cutting acylic cards and other materials from a drawing in vector based sorftware sAdobe Illustrator
  • Computer Numerical Routing (CNC) plywood for a vector based software and a three-dimensional model from Rhinoceros a NURBS surface modeler.
4.2 Woven Structures
  • Warp faced twining.
4.3 Fibers
  • 8/4 unmercerized cotton
  • size 3 col. 670 6-cord cordonnet
  • size 3 col. 601 6-cord cordonnet
  • 3-cord gold and white nylon
Figure 8: british teapot pattern details

Chapter 3: Mechanizing table Loom

Note: works, weaves, photography, drawing presented in this chapter is done by Yiqi otherwise noticed.

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1   background

We began this project by analytically compartmentalizing the Louet Erica Table Loom ($300+) and researching, in depth, how these parts could be assembled to create a loom iteration that would function efficiently in very low cost with digi-fab implementations.

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2  Prototyping Plan

The group firstly fabricated a simple table loom(Fig. 9) and tested several weaves with hand operated reed.

After discussing the most appropriate digital fabrication tools or methods for each of the table loom components we came to the conclusion that we would 3D model the exterior gear and lock system and the rattle, we would laser-cut 1/8th inch acrylic reed and attach this through a bended wire and a couple bolts. The middle mechanization would be mostly built with wood dowels, sewing bobbins, cord, and wooden pegs. Also, the sides and the top rack would be laser-cut from cardboard and laminated to increase the strength of the mockup model. We would originally build these out of cardboard(Fig. 10) with the intent that they would be cut by the CNC router later for our revised model.

Figure 9a: group loom fabricated collaboratively
Figure 9b: reed details
Figure 9c: turning gears
Figure 9d: woven structure done by Yiqi
Figure 10a: initial loom design fabricated collaboratively within group
Figure 10b: prototyping using recycling materials

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3 Modification

One of the most impactful changes that we decided to pursue would be to utilize the friction created between the warp beam and the wood sides to create the tensioning of the warp. This decision would not only create a solution for the locking mechanism but would also simplify the process of fabrication.

Figure 10a: testing 40 ends weaving
Figure 10b: testing 80 ends weaving
Figure 10c testing 40 ends weaving
Figure 11: Loom drawing by Ziang Tang and Yiqi Zhao

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3.1 Drum Design

We created a drum attached to the reed to automate pattern sequencing . The drum allows user to just rotate the drum to get specific sequencing. However, the more we mechaning the process of weaving, the less people can implement customized design during the weaving process. Now the system is left with only one thing that completely done by human hand, the movement of shuttle.

Figure 12: Drum design done by the group collaboratively

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4 Weaving Methodology

4.1 Wrap | Prep

We created a more complex warp pattern for this weaving. The pattern used three colors - red, yellow, and blue - in a order that varied from the previous 1, 2, 3, 4 pattern of threading. The different threading allowed us to develop a complex pattern with a simple 2/2 twill raising the warp threads. If we continued to develop designs for this loom, we would likely again use a more complex warp setup as this brings opportunity for beautiful patterns with less complicated requirements in raising and lowering the heddles. This process requires more setup time, but allows the weaving to go quickly.

Figure 13a: Wraps by Mikaela Meierhofer,Rachel Deutmeyer,
Figure 13b: loom setup by Yiqi and Mikaela Meierhofer
Figure 14: Loom in use

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4.2 Weaving Tests

After threading the loom and weaving with the new pattern, a few potential revisions came to mind. First, the pattern is very small and more subtle than expected. This may be because the pattern is primarily evident through the warp threads and the thicker weft threads quickly overwhelmed the colors of the warp threads. Planning for thicker warp threads or using a more substantial pattern by doubling warp threads intended to create visual emphasis would be potential solutions.

The use of white weft thread seemed to be more successful in evidencing the pattern. Also, the original pattern we created required a repeat after eight passes(Fig 15), which was challenging to implement with the mechanized process.

Digital fabrication can improve and speed up the processes of crafting one of these highly mechanized table looms. Laser-cutting and 3D printing seemed to be very beneficial tools to our workflow, however the CNC router process did not improve or speed any previous processes up. Further choice of making the structure could be simply done in woodshop.

Figure 15a: pattern design 4 repeat loop
Figure 15b: pattern design 8 repeat loop
Figure 16a: pattern design 4 repeat loop detail
Figure 16b: pattern design 8 repeat loop detail
Figure 17a: pattern weave 4 repeat loop
Figure 17b: pattern weave 8 repeat loop

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The use of white weft thread seemed to be more successful in evidencing the pattern. Also, the original pattern we created required a repeat after eight passes(Fig 15), which was challenging to implement with the mechanized process.

Digital fabrication can improve and speed up the processes of crafting one of these highly mechanized table looms. Laser-cutting and 3D printing seemed to be very beneficial tools to our workflow, however the CNC router process did not improve or speed any previous processes up. Further choice of making the structure could be simply done in woodshop.

Figure 18: final weaving by Yiqi

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